12.31.2009

new years






Video: Me at the New Year's party, dombra included.
Pics: New Year's party.

The Kazakh celebration held at my apartment was kinda hilarious. The dudes and I took multiple shots of whiskey while the gals talked in the kitchen. After eating beshbarmak and at each interval of the night, people passed the time by looking through photo albums (at a party).

I showed them pictures of America and one guy asked, “Why is everyone's noses big?” I responded, “No, no, no, that's just me and my family.”

Then all of a sudden, after a peaceful and restful photo browsing session, they blast music in the apartment and all gather in a circle in the hallway and dance. I was caught off guard. A pair of guys danced together in the center, while people clapped and danced, too. My host/roommate was dancing while wearing her apron.

There were multiple toasts given. No one ever finishes a drink, alcoholic or not, because that implies you don't want to accept anymore beverages (generosity) from the host. We had American rap playing in the background.

Around 2am the dudes were getting into some conflict outside with other guys while the girls turned off the lights of the apartment to peek out the window and listen. When the guys returned the women kept silent about the tomfoolery. It was another example of how immature guys are and the patience, talent, and strength women have here. We went to bed at 3:30am.

The next morning at 9am I got a call saying I must see the mayor. So I went to a New Year's children's performance and when I was leaving to get my coat from some office, I walked in on a circle of the mayor and officials making toasts with champagne. So of course I had to join for a bit and then depart.

12.27.2009



For Christmas, I helped out at my friend's school's Christmas celebration. Hearing that I was coming they decided to make me dress up as Santa and be one of the main judges. It was hilarious cuz at one point after announcing the winner, they blasted Beyonce club remix songs and all the children danced with (and around) me in some wild mosh pit.

I started going to (and will soon assist with) the official English Club at an American Corners organization in the city. It was refreshing because many of them were near my age and appeared to have interests beyond their daily routine (something I run into too much in my village). I foresee maybe forming some good friendships and connections through this place.

I was on the bus the other day and group of young kids and teens got onto the bus. They were wearing colorful rag clothes (something you'd see straight out of a stage play about peasants). They made a big spectacle of running around, trying to trip each other, punching each other – and then they got off without paying. It was strange. Maybe they were orphans. I wonder if it's common in KZ for people in these circumstances to get free access to public transportation. Or maybe they made a spectacle so people wouldn't mind them not paying because they'd be relieved to see them gone.

12.23.2009

happy holidays

my routine (in pictures)















A couple new things have become part of my routine. I've been reading a fairy tale a few nights a week (and love how dark and melancholy some are – I recently read “The Fir Tree” and it made me wanna weep). I've also been having solo dance sessions with my i-pod, in the dark in my room, which puts me in a good mood. I also think I'll start going to a free yoga class on Sundays (I probably wouldn't in the US, but it was kinda fun last week - it was a good mix of moms, teens, and dudes – and a lot of the stretches were really erotic.

My school has shortened classes and in-between breaks a bit because the school is so cold.

12.19.2009

So . . . most people I meet think I'm Turkish, which I guess is better than them assuming I'm American. Maybe it's just because I speak a little Kazakh. I remember how -certain- Americans would sometimes foolishly think my siblings were Arab or Mexican because they had a summer tan.

It's usually -5 degrees Fahrenheit and it simply hurts sometimes. I try to get two week's worth of food when I shop now to avoid being outside too much. But it's honestly not too bad. It's like those few cold days in Michigan when you can feel your boogers freezing.

I haven't found a language tutor yet, but I've found that I get good language practice when I go to the local pub to prepare lessons and have a beer. People all have questions and they're all really friendly.

I finally started my discussion club and our first topic was Love and Dating. The students are pretty cool. I burned them a CD of my music and we plan to go on some field trips maybe. They think it's ridiculous for an American to want to come to their country.

12.16.2009

songs....

these songs are popular here now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwTpr-XFdqQ


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-Z3YrHJ1sU&feature=fvst
Video: My students say hello.


December 16th was the Kazakhstani day of Independence. About a hundred people gathered outside in front of city hall to watch Kazakh dancers, students singing, and awards being given out. I had to memorize and recite a brief speech in Kazakh to the crowd with a microphone. It was not too bad. I was awarded a stuffed camel doll. It was hilarious, though, watching these people stand in the freezing cold (I was with them). Everyone kept slightly walking in place to keep their blood flowing. I just couldn't understand why they'd gather outside when it's 0 degrees.

My school has no heat so I (and other teachers) have already started to wear scarves and gloves while we teach. I see my breath when I teach. Jealous?

I'm really tired today. I had to make multiple trips carrying buckets full of our leftovers to a nearby friend's apartment for their cow to eat. I still don't know about my living situation. People are afraid to give me updates and explain the details to me. I think I'll be able to stay here in this perfect apartment for a maximum of 4 months (under new conditions). I was talking about eventually living alone in later months and some people said there are no available apartments nearby. This could turn into a problem because I'm not interested in looking for another family in May. I'd like my own place.

The photos in the previous post are of this backstreet boy-ish band of Kazakhstan that I saw. I met them backstage, which was kinda cool, though the venue was basically a high school auditorium and the singers had beer bellies.

12.12.2009








Video and Pics: Some of my classes, my school, and some pop group I met, called “Jigitter (boys)” .

It turns out my living situation may have to change once again. I'll have more updates later. I feel like a foster child.

12.05.2009


my roommates

new place...



Video: My roommate playing the dombra.
Pics: My new room, kitchen, and my roommates.
So...after a few weeks of being uncomfortable in my home, I decided to find a new family. I now live in a 3rd floor apartment with a young couple who work at my school: Gulzira is an English teacher and Meirambai is a military teacher. I have a cute room that overlooks the Kazakhstani steppe and has a balcony. I use the cold balcony as my fridge and as my clothes dryer. The situation is ideal because I'm treated like a roommate and not a child. She'll be showing me soon how to make bread from scratch.
A few nights ago I went out with 6 male teachers. It was the dude-iest night of my life - hilarious. Two nights later I went out dancing with 6 female teachers and it was really fun. There isn't that awkward inhibition with dancing that I usually see back at home. The crowd doesn't often see people dance like me (stupid style), so I was kinda a hit for a night. And every guy I meet for some reason asks me to go with them to a “women sauna”. Weird. Anyway, I'm finally starting to hang out with people my age. And next month I plan on starting a Discussion/Debate Club with my 11th graders where we talk about juicy topics, so that could be really fun.
And remember when I never waited to hear your “goodbye” before hanging up the phone? It was quick (3-2-1- bye). Well, here, I only ever hear an “OK” before people hang up. It's even quicker and without a “goodbye”, so be prepared to witness poorer phone etiquette when I return.
Lastly, I want to say that the mayo here is like twice as fatty. Mark was right. I'm gonna be addicted (at least I'll maybe gain a few more pounds now). . . .

11.21.2009

videos: new house, hello message from me, and train ride



Video: My bro says “Hi” I started teaching finally after so much waiting and schedule prep. The kids are pretty cool. All English teachers here start classes with “Good morning class. I am very glad to see you.” And the kids shout back, “GOOD MORNING TEACHER! WE ARE GLAD TO SEE YOU, TOO!”. It's kinda happy.

11.13.2009

My family lives the clean life. I must wash my hands every time I enter the house, and before and after eating (turns out being 6 times/day; and that's not counting the times I'll wash them if someone knows I'm using the toilet). After coming home I must change into my house clothes (pajamas). I scrub and polish my shoes everyday and I also can't touch my skin during meals. Yep. .....I miss the feral life.

I now know my work schedule: I work Tuesdays thru Saturdays, grades 5,8,9,10,11. I will be tag-teaming these classes with a teacher for each class.

I finally found a wifi cafe, so I'm hoping to video chat with people next weekend. The time that'd be best for me is my Sunday morning, which is your Saturday night (between 11pm-2am). So only the hardcore andrew lovers will do it.

11.07.2009










Pics: My new brother, my new home in Kargala (and view from bedroom window). the train, and my first family in Panfilova.

I took a 41 hour train to Aktobe. The ride was so fun because I met a ton of cool strangers (I finally met a kazakh person who I think “got” me), people shared lots of their food with me, and I got rest. After arriving at the station, 3 co-workers and my school director met up with me and took me immediately to my new school (which is a huge 3-story school). I introduced myself to 15 classrooms and then met my new family. My peers seem really easy to work with. There are like 6 other English teachers who I'll be working with and they're all women in their young 20' s, excited, inquisitive, and pretty cool. I live in a beautiful 2-story brick house. It has an indoor toilet, bath, and washing machine, is only 2 minutes from my school, only 2 minutes to the bus station, and just a 30-minute bus ride to downtown. I live with a married couple (Berik owns three markets at the downtown bazaar and the Gulnar works at home) and their amazing 10 year old son, Adiljan (he wrestles. too). Me and Adiljan have become fast friends. I'm 10 minutes from a library with internet, also. I'm ecstatic to have space from american crowds. I've been thrown to the opposite side of the country and I'm okay with that right now.
The first few days at my school have been fun, though a bit weird because swarms of children will crowd around me (as if I'm Elmo) and shout kazakh and english salutations. I've had to escape the kids that follow me by taking refuge in the teacher's lounge. There's a sensation in the school about having a foreigner, but that sensation will soon fade I'm sure when they realize my Kazakh skills aren't developing and I actually am here to teach and not just play.
I also met the city mayor in his office (he gave me a dictionary with his signature). Kargala has pretty hills, paved streets, though it certainly has its fair share of poverty. Sledding might need to happen in the winter. It's basically Wayne because it's a cute little city where you can walk to all the important places, but take a 25 minute ride if you need some big city action.
Hitchhiking is pretty common in KZ - old grannies and teenagers do it. It's been really fun getting into the cars of strangers when me and friends have missed the last bus of the night, are lazy or lost. It's also funny to shop at the bazaar because bargaining is common and the clerks usually go down like 10-15%, especially if you make them laugh with your rocky Kazakh. (I never thought I'd be a bargaining supporter after selling apartments in Ann Arbor).
I've also appreciated the communality and different views on body image . People bathe in groups and help scrub each other. Strangers change in fitting rooms together and people eat off the same plate, double dip non-stop, and share food insistently. I like how things are a bit more loose.

My last piece of praise is the fact that I finally sat down to watch TV and discovered that our TV has Nickelodeon and CNN in English; this means I'm able to watch iCarly!. To anyone who's worried about my well-being, be comforted, because iCarly is back in my life once again. And all is and will be well.

10.25.2009

late october




Pics: My co-teacher during training and our 8th grade class – mostly Russian kids.

I recently saw a talent show at a nearby school and it was great. Multiple acts were simply teenage girls doing unrehearsed, naughty dances to rap music to a crowd of silenced teachers and roaring children. Before the judges voted, they were pursued by the performers with baskets of fruit and fried bread, perhaps to win them over. Among the other sections of the show were a breakdance routine by 10 boys (who did flips off the stage) and a ballroom dance routine by 8 couples to “Only Hope” by Mandy Moore from A Walk to Remember. Magical.

I met one of my co-teachers. She's a lovely woman that's close to my age. We're basically going to be best friends because she loves horror movies and likes to dance. Me and some friends spent the night in Almaty recently and it was a beautiful disaster as usual. We rented an apartment for a night, got the key from an office and walked 20 minutes in the rain to the room. I broke the key in the keyhole (it got stuck), so we had to return to the office where the receptionist luckily gave as another room (which was in a completely different part of town). We walked 20 minutes there and after putting our stuff in the room, I accidentally locked the door without the passcode to the door. So we had to yell for help to second-floor tenants and after 10 minutes of this a stranger finally yelled out the code. I was a complete screw-up. Twice. We went to a restaurant after and a Russian woman said, in English, “Shut Up” because we were excitedly talking. Later a Kazakh businessman sat with us to practice his English. He cracked up when I said a Kazakh word (as many people do) and knew more about American agriculture and demographics than most Americans. He asked if we were protestant missionaries, in which we emphatically told him we're just teachers.

10.14.2009

early october

Pic: My new coat...
I finally had my first professional haircut ever in my life. It was $4, slightly choppy, but solid. I do miss the hands of Sheri, however. At English Club last week, me and Sam had a mini dance workshop and choreographed something hideous for 20 kids, based on recycled moves from our teenage performances. The kids had fun, though some of my dance move ideas were rejected for reasons I'm not willing to admit. This past weekend me and a few peers had to sing a Kazakh love lullaby in front of all the teachers for Teacher's Day. It wasn't a complete disaster until everyone chose to follow up the song with an English church hymn. I went to a classical kazakh orchestra recently and it was very cool. There was an opera singer (who secretly picked at her nose on stage), lots of dombra action, and a jaw harp soloist. I find out my permanent site on the 9th! I'm hoping to get to be in the south, near a city, in a Kazakh speaking community, next to a bud or two. I'm logging this in my blog so I can have a good laugh and cry when my placement is the exact opposite.

On Halloween I will be taking a 42 hour train ride to Karagalinsk (I think the Kazakh version is Kargala), my new hometown. It may or may not mean “cow-ish”. It's 40 minutes outside Aktobe, a pretty big city in the northwest of Kazakhstan. I'm 40 hours from my best friend (and many others), in a very cold region (usually 25 below in the winter), in a small village of only 8,000, just 150 kilometers from the Russian border. I'll be teaching elementary and middle schoolers. Everything discussed so far is the the exact opposite of what I expressed interest in. Nonetheless, it could be fun. I'll be meeting my main co-teacher in a week. If she's pretty cool, I'll have some renewed enthusiasm.

After shopping with Sam yesterday (I bought a heavy duty winter coat), I was dehydrated and tired and had to stand for a long time on a super cramped bus. So...I blacked out on the bus. I had glazed eyes and swayed into a woman and couldn't respond when Sam spoke to me. The bus stopped for me and let me clumsily get off without paying (after someone unsuccessfully tried getting a granny to give her seat up for me). After recovering immediately with some fresh air and water, I realized it was actually pretty funny. I'll take better care of myself in the future.

9.23.2009




Picture: Sipra and I hiking
Picture: The fabric strips in the tree represent numerous prayers sent out from people.
Picture: Marissa and I hiking

late September

I finally started teaching. It hasn't been a complete disaster and the kids are so adorable. They're pretty excited to learn (or at least learn in a new way). I think I might have fun with this job.

I recently had to send out a letter, but the line was super long. This one excited little student insisted I return to the post office (I thought he knew something I didn't about the system). So he led me back and took me to the front of the line and announced I was American and somehow thought that would be effective. It was so extremely embarrassing and I immediately escaped after I caught onto his plan and heard the grumbling of the crowd. However, the next time I went to the post office a middle-aged worker passed me a strip of paper with “you're eyes are beautiful” written in Kazakh. Who does that?

Two students were excited to talk to me about America, but were most interested in discussing Arnold Schwarzenegger and Van Diesel. It was a short conversation. A few day later some other kids that I've only seen once gave me a red karate belt and a bronze rooster figurine as a gift. I simply don't know why.

Throughout Ramadan here there have been two rituals I've liked: kids going door-to-door one night reciting a super long prayer and receiving lots of candy, fruit, cookies, and even money. The second ritual everyone stayed up all night (they're supposed to pray and read the Quran but I think they ended up watching the TV coverage of it) until 6am the next morning. Halloween could be even better if money was given out and we all stayed up all night.

9.16.2009


Picture: hiking in Ecik

9.09.2009


Picture: My friend Sam

9.04.2009




Pictures: My neighborhood and school